Monica Larner reviews for Etna Rosso

2011 Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso San Lorenzo

A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine (94 points).

What sets the 2011 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo apart is the purity of the wine’s bouquet. There’s a great sense of focus here with delicate floral perfumes mixed with spice, dark fruit and cigar ash. San Lorenzo is also slightly fuller and more generous on the palate. Drink 2015-2030.

Giuseppe Russo is among my favorite Etna producers. A trained pianist, he abandoned music to make wine after his father’s death. His cellar is the old garage that his father once used for woodshop, and his mother (a fabulous cook) lives in the apartment above. Giuseppe has recently made improvements to his winery space and he continues to farm according to tried and true Etna tradition.

 

2013 Girolamo Russo Etna Rosato

A Proprietary Blend Dry Rose Table wine (90 points).

The 2013 Etna Rosato is a fabulous rose that opens to a cranberry pink color and offers pretty aromas of white cherry and wild strawberry. The mouthfeel is tonic, mineral-driven and crisp. Drink 2014-2018.

 

2011 Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso A Rina

A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine (92 points).

The 2011 Etna Rosso A Rina is a heavily volcanic wine with a sharp vein of flint, ash and brimstone that cuts straight through. It’s almost saline in character. Pretty fruit tones round off the finish. Drink 2015-2030.

 

2011 Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso Feudo

A Proprietary Blend Dry Red Table wine (93 points).

The 2011 Etna Rosso Feudo shows elegance and finesse in a toned and stripped-down style. The wine offers a great sense of purity with licorice, violets, ash and tight berry nuances. Giuseppe shows a great use of oak to soften the wine’s tight tannins. Drink 2015-2025.

 

Source: eRobertParker.com #212 May 2014 | Reviewer: Monica Larner